# Blush Pink Romantic Lace Bucket Bag Free Crochet Pattern
The moment I finished this bag I just stood there holding it, turning it around in the light. A sturdy blush-pink base that holds its shape, then this dreamy cream lace climbing up the sides, finished with little tassels on the drawstrings — it looks like something from a boutique, but every stitch is gloriously simple. I have carried mine to the farmers market three weekends running and gotten asked about it every single time.
Do not let the lace intimidate you. It is one four-round repeat, worked over and over, and I will count it out with you the whole way. If you can crochet a flat circle and follow a repeat, this bag is absolutely within reach — and it is so worth it.
What You’ll Need
- Color A (Blush Pink): 150 grams of DK weight cotton or cotton-blend yarn
- Color B (Cream / Natural): 200 grams of DK weight cotton or cotton-blend yarn
- Stick with cotton or a cotton-linen blend here — it holds the bag’s structure and shows lace crisply. Stretchy acrylics will sag over time, so save those for another project.
- 3.5 mm (US E/4) crochet hook for the main body
- 3.0 mm (US D/3) crochet hook for the base (optional, for an extra-firm bottom)
- Stitch marker, yarn needle, scissors, and a small piece of cardboard about 3 inches wide for tassel making
Finished size:
- Height approximately 11 inches (28 cm) including the scalloped edge
- Base approximately 7 inches (18 cm) in diameter
- Top opening approximately 9 inches (23 cm) in diameter
Gauge:
- With the 3.5 mm hook and DK cotton: 18 single crochet stitches = 4 inches
- 20 rows of single crochet = 4 inches. A firm gauge matters — a loose base makes a floppy bag
The Pattern
Stitch guide: ch = chain, sl st = slip stitch, sc = single crochet, dc = double crochet, sk = skip, sp = space, st(s) = stitch(es). The base and lower body are worked in continuous rounds — mark the first stitch of each round. The lace section uses joined rounds.
Part 1 — The Base (Color A)
Work a flat circle. It must lie perfectly flat — if it cups, go up a hook size; if it ruffles, go down.
Round 1: Make a magic ring. Ch 1, work 6 sc into the ring, pull tight. (6 sts)
Round 2: 2 sc in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 3: [Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st] around. (18 sts)
Round 4: [Sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st] around. (24 sts)
Round 5: [Sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st] around. (30 sts)
Round 6: [Sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st] around. (36 sts)
Round 7: [Sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st] around. (42 sts)
Round 8: [Sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st] around. (48 sts)
Round 9: [Sc in next 7 sts, 2 sc in next st] around. (54 sts)
Round 10: [Sc in next 8 sts, 2 sc in next st] around. (60 sts)
Round 11: [Sc in next 9 sts, 2 sc in next st] around. (66 sts)
Round 12: [Sc in next 10 sts, 2 sc in next st] around. (72 sts)
Round 13: [Sc in next 11 sts, 2 sc in next st] around. (78 sts)
Round 14: [Sc in next 12 sts, 2 sc in next st] around. (84 sts)
Round 15: [Sc in next 13 sts, 2 sc in next st] around. (90 sts)
Round 16: [Sc in next 14 sts, 2 sc in next st] around. (96 sts)
Checkpoint: The base should measure about 7 inches (18 cm) across.
Part 2 — Lower Body (Color A)
Round 17: Working in back loops only, sc in each st around. (96 sts) — this creates the crisp edge where the base meets the walls.
Rounds 18–35: Sc in each st around (through both loops again). (96 sts each round)
Fasten off Color A at the end of Round 35.
Part 3 — Lace Body (Color B)
Join Color B with a standing sc (or a sl st + ch 1) in any stitch. The lace is a 4-round repeat worked 6 times.
Round 36: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join with sl st to first sc. (96 sc)
Lace Round A: Ch 1, [sc in first st, sk 2 sts, 5 dc in next st (shell made), sk 2 sts] 16 times, join with sl st to first sc. (16 shells)
Lace Round B: Sl st into the center (3rd) dc of the first shell. Ch 1, [sc in center dc of shell, ch 3, sc in sc-anchor between shells, ch 3] 16 times, join with sl st to first sc. (32 sc, 32 ch-3 sps)
Lace Round C: Sl st into the first ch-3 sp. Ch 3 (counts as dc), 4 dc in same sp, [sc in next ch-3 sp, 5 dc in next ch-3 sp] 15 times, sc in last ch-3 sp, join with sl st to top of ch-3. (16 shells, 16 sc)
Lace Round D: Ch 1, sc in each st around (1 sc in each dc and each sc), join with sl st to first sc. (96 sc)
Rounds 37–60: Repeat Lace Rounds A–D six times total.
Checkpoint: The lace section should measure about 6 inches tall.
Part 4 — Drawstring Channel
Round 61: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (96 sc)
Round 62: Ch 4 (counts as dc plus ch 1), sk first st, [dc in next st, ch 1, sk 1 st] 47 times, dc in last st, join with sl st to 3rd ch of beginning ch-4. (49 dc, 48 ch-1 sps — these are the drawstring holes)
Round 63: Ch 1, sc in each dc and each ch-1 sp around, join. (96 sc)
Part 5 — Scalloped Edge
Round 64: Ch 1, [sc in first st, sk 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, sk 2 sts] 16 times, join. (16 shells)
Round 65: Sl st into the center dc of the first shell. Ch 1, [sc in center dc of shell, ch 3, sc in sc-anchor, ch 3] 16 times, join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off and weave in all ends.
Part 6 — Drawstring Cords (Make 2)
Chain 180 (about 40 inches). Sl st in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Fasten off.
Threading: starting at opposite sides of the bag, weave each cord in and out of the ch-1 spaces in Round 62, going all the way around and exiting where it started. Pulling both cords closes the bag evenly, like a little pouch.
Part 7 — Tassels (Make 2)
Wrap Color B around your 3-inch cardboard about 30 times. Slide a separate strand under the wraps at the top and tie tightly (this is the hanging loop). Cut the bottom wraps. Wrap another strand around the tassel about half an inch from the top, tie firmly, and tuck the ends inside. Trim the bottom evenly and tie one tassel to each cord end.
Part 8 — Shoulder Strap
Chain 200 (adjust for shoulder or crossbody length).
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, ch 1, turn. (199 sc)
Row 2: Sc in each st across. Fasten off. Whipstitch the strap ends firmly to the top sides of the bag just below the scalloped edge.
Optional lining: A simple cotton fabric lining sewn inside keeps small treasures from peeking through the lace. Totally worth the extra half hour.
Sophie’s Tips
- Count to 16 shells after every Lace Round A — the whole pattern hinges on that number, and it is much easier to fix one round than six.
- Steam-block the lace gently before adding the drawstring; it opens the shells beautifully and evens out any wobbly rounds.
- Make the strap longer than you think you want it, try the bag on, then trim — you can always shorten a strap, but you cannot stretch one.
Carry it everywhere and enjoy every compliment — happy crocheting, friend!
