# Caramel Mocha Lace Bucket Bag Free Crochet Pattern
Oh friends, this one is a stunner. A two-tone bucket bag with a rich chocolate brown base and a warm caramel lace overlay that looks far more complicated than it really is. The decorative medallion panel and scalloped edging give it a vintage, bohemian feel, while the drawstring closure and tassels keep it modern and functional. This is the bag you will actually want to carry everywhere.
What I love most about this design is how the construction breaks down into manageable pieces. You’re not crocheting one overwhelming project — you work a simple base, build up the body, create the lace panel separately, and bring everything together. Each section uses techniques you probably already know, just combined in a fresh way. The lace looks intricate, but it’s built from basic stitches in a medallion pattern. If you can chain, single crochet, double crochet, and treble crochet, you’ve got this.

What You’ll Need
- DK weight cotton yarn: Color A (Chocolate Brown) 200 grams, approximately 400 yards; Color B (Caramel) 250 grams, approximately 500 yards (mercerized cotton gives a lovely subtle sheen)
- US 3.5 mm (E/4) crochet hook
- Tapestry needle, at least 4 stitch markers, scissors
- Optional: fabric lining and sewing supplies
Finished size:
- Height approximately 10 inches (excluding handle)
- Width at base: 8 inches
- Width at top opening: 10 inches
- Handle drop: 8 inches
The Pattern
Gauge:
- 20 stitches and 22 rows = 4 inches in single crochet with Color A
- Always check your gauge — a bag that is too loose will stretch and sag

Part 1: The Base (Color A)
The base is worked in a flat oval of single crochet in continuous rounds — a sturdy bottom that holds its shape.
Round 1: With Color A, chain 25. Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 22 ch, 3 sc in last ch. Working along the opposite side of the foundation chain, sc in next 22 ch, 2 sc in last ch. Do not join. Place marker to indicate the beginning of round. (50 sts)
Round 2: 2 sc in first st, sc in next 22 sts, 2 sc in each of next 3 sts, sc in next 22 sts, 2 sc in each of last 2 sts. (58 sts)
Round 3: Sc in first st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 22 sts, (sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) 3 times, sc in next 22 sts, (sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) twice. (66 sts)
Round 4: Sc in first 2 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 22 sts, (sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) 3 times, sc in next 22 sts, (sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) twice. (74 sts)
Rounds 5 through 7: Continue the increasing pattern, adding 8 sts per round evenly spaced at the curved ends. (98 sts after Round 7)
Your base should measure approximately 8 inches long by 4 inches wide. If it looks puckered, your tension is too tight; if it ruffles, too loose.
Part 2: The Body Lower Section (Color A)
Work upward in joined rounds to create the solid chocolate brown portion.
Round 1: Working in back loops only this round (creates the crisp edge at the base), sc in each st around, sl st to first sc to join. (98 sts)
Rounds 2 through 25: Ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to first sc. (98 sts)
The lower body should measure approximately 4.5 inches tall. Fasten off Color A and weave in ends.
Part 3: The Body Upper Section (Color B)
Join Color B in any stitch with a slip stitch.
Rounds 1 through 12: Ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to first sc. (98 sts)
Eyelet Round: Ch 1, sc in first st, \*ch 1, sk 1, sc in next st;\* repeat from \* around, ending with ch 1, sk 1, sl st to first sc. (49 sc, 49 ch-1 spaces) — this eyelet row creates the holes for your drawstring later.
Rounds 14 through 16: Ch 1, sc in each st and ch-1 space around, sl st to first sc. (98 sts)
Do not fasten off. Continue to the scalloped edging.
Part 4: Scalloped Top Edging (Color B)
Scallop Round: \*Sk 2 sts, 5 dc in next st (shell made), sk 2 sts, sl st in next st;\* repeat from \* around. You should have approximately 16 scallops. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Part 5: The Lace Overlay Panel (Color B)
Worked separately and attached to the front of the bag — a center medallion with decorative borders.
Center Medallion:
Round 1: With Color B, ch 6, sl st to form a ring. Ch 3 (counts as dc), 15 dc into the ring, sl st to top of ch-3. (16 dc)
Round 2: Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), \*dc in next st, ch 1;\* repeat from \* around, sl st to 3rd ch of ch-4. (16 dc, 16 ch-1 spaces)
Round 3: Sl st into ch-1 space, ch 3, 2 dc in same space, ch 2, \*3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 2;\* repeat from \* around, sl st to top of ch-3. (16 groups of 3 dc)
Round 4: Sl st to center dc of group, ch 3, 2 dc in same st, ch 3, \*3 dc in center dc of next group, ch 3;\* repeat from \* around, sl st to top of ch-3.
Rounds 5 through 8: Continue increasing chain spaces by 1 each round, maintaining the 3 dc clusters.
Round 9: Work shell pattern: \*5 dc in center dc of cluster, ch 4, sc in ch space, ch 4;\* repeat from \* around.
Outer Border Rounds 10 through 12: Continue building outward with alternating shells and chain spaces, creating the pointed petal shapes visible in the photo.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Part 6: Small Decorative Medallions (Make 2, Color B)
These smaller circles sit at the upper corners of the lace panel.
Round 1: Ch 4, sl st to form a ring. Ch 3, 11 dc into the ring, sl st to top of ch-3. (12 dc)
Round 2: Ch 4, \*dc in next st, ch 1;\* repeat from \* around, sl st to 3rd ch. (12 dc, 12 ch-1 spaces)
Round 3: Sl st into space, ch 3, dc in same space, ch 2, \*2 dc in next space, ch 2;\* repeat from \* around, sl st to top of ch-3.
Fasten off.
Part 7: Lace Panel Assembly
Lay out your pieces: one large center medallion and two small medallions. Position the small medallions above and to either side of the large medallion, overlapping the edges slightly. Use a tapestry needle and matching yarn to whip stitch them together where they meet. Pin the completed panel to the front of your bag, centering it with the lower point of the medallion about 2 inches from the bottom of the caramel section. Whip stitch around all edges, securing the lace to the bag body.
Part 8: The Handle (Color B)
The handle is a crocheted tube worked in rounds.
Foundation: Ch 4, sl st to form a ring.
Round 1: 8 sc into the ring. Do not join — work in a continuous spiral.
Rounds 2 through 180: Sc in each st around. (8 sts)
Your tube should measure approximately 28 inches. Stuff lightly with yarn scraps if desired for added stability, or leave hollow for flexibility. Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Attach the ends to the inside of the bag at either side of the upper opening, approximately 2 inches below the scalloped edge.
Part 9: Drawstring (Color B)
Chain 150, or until the chain measures approximately 30 inches. Sl st in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. Fasten off. Weave the drawstring through the eyelet round, starting and ending at center front.
Part 10: Tassels (Make 2, Color B)
Wrap yarn around a 4-inch piece of cardboard approximately 30 times. Slide a 10-inch piece of yarn under the wraps at one end and tie tightly. Cut the opposite end to release the tassel. Wrap another piece of yarn around the tassel about half an inch from the top and secure. Trim the ends evenly. Attach one tassel to each end of the drawstring.
Sophie’s Tips
- Blocking matters. Before assembly, wet block your lace panel by soaking it in lukewarm water, gently squeezing out excess moisture, and pinning it to shape. This opens up the lacework and makes it look professional.
- Consider adding a lining — a simple drawstring bag shape in cotton fabric, hand sewn inside. It protects your belongings from poking through the lace openings and adds structure.
- Count your stitches often, especially in the body section. Losing or gaining even a few stitches changes your final dimensions and affects how the lace panel fits.
You did it! A show-stopping bucket bag that looks like it came from a boutique. Enjoy carrying it everywhere.