# Sunshine Butter Yellow Fairy Top Free Crochet Pattern
You know that gorgeous skein of cotton yarn you have been saving for “the right project”? This is it. Dig into your stash, because this bohemian beauty combines three textures in one stunning garment: a dense single crochet bodice, open diamond mesh at the sides, dramatic bell sleeves, and the sweetest daisy granny squares at the waist.
I will not sugarcoat it — this top sits firmly in the intermediate to advanced camp. You will work granny squares, mesh stitch, garment shaping, and seaming. But if you have made a few simpler garments and you are ready to level up, this project will teach you so much. It is the kind of top that looks absolutely stunning at festivals, garden parties, or anywhere you want to feel like a woodland fairy.
What You’ll Need
- Main color (MC): 700 (750, 820, 880, 950) yards of DK weight cotton yarn in butter yellow — sizes XS (S, M, L, XL)
- Contrast color (CC): 80 yards of worsted weight cotton in white, for the daisy petals
- Accent color (AC): 15 yards of worsted weight cotton in golden yellow, for the daisy centers
- US size E-4 (3.5 mm) hook for the bodice and peplum
- US size F-5 (3.75 mm) hook for the sleeve mesh sections
- US size D-3 (3.25 mm) hook for the daisy squares
- Tapestry needle, at least 8 stitch markers, scissors
- 60 inches of 3 mm ribbon or cord in butter yellow or white, for the lace-up closure
- Blocking mats and rust-proof pins
Finished size:
- Five sizes with 1-2 inches of positive ease (the lace-up front adds another inch of adjustability)
- XS: bust 32 inches (81 cm), length 22 inches (56 cm)
- S: bust 34 inches (86 cm), length 22.5 inches (57 cm)
- M: bust 36 inches (91 cm), length 23 inches (58 cm)
- L: bust 38 inches (97 cm), length 23.5 inches (60 cm)
- XL: bust 40 inches (102 cm), length 24 inches (61 cm)
- Instructions are written for size S, with changes for other sizes in parentheses: XS (S, M, L, XL)
The Pattern
Gauge:
- Bodice panel: 20 sc x 24 rows = 4 inches (10 cm), blocked. Mesh section: one mesh repeat = 0.75 inch wide
- 16 rows = 4 inches tall. Daisy granny square: one completed square = 3 x 3 inches (7.5 x 7.5 cm), blocked. Make and block a 6-inch swatch before starting — garments live or die by gauge
Special stitches: Diamond mesh (flat) needs a stitch count divisible by 4, plus 1.
Row 1 (RS): ch 1, sc in first st, (ch 3, sk 3 sts, sc in next st) across, turn.
Row 2 (WS): ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), dc in first ch-3 sp, (ch 1, dc in same ch-3 sp, ch 1, dc in next ch-3 sp) across, ending with dc in last sc, turn.
Row 3: ch 1, sc in first dc, (ch 3, sc in next dc) across, turn. Repeat Rows 2-3. Picot scallop border: join yarn with sl st, ch 1, sc in same st, then (sk 1 st, 5 dc in next st, sk 1 st, sc in next st) across — for the picot on each fan, after the 3rd dc of the 5-dc group, ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch from hook, then complete the remaining 2 dc. Lace-up eyelet column: on every 4th row of the center bodice panel, work the center 2 sts as sk 1 sc, ch 2, sk 1 sc; on the following row, work 2 sc into that ch-2 space.
Avoid yarns with too much elasticity like pure acrylic — the mesh and peplum rely on cotton’s natural drape.
Daisy Granny Squares (make 4 for XS, 5 for S and M, 6 for L, 7 for XL)
The daisy squares use slightly heavier yarn intentionally for a padded, dimensional petal look.
Round 1 (daisy center): With AC and the D-3 hook, make a magic ring. Ch 2, work 12 dc in ring, join with sl st to top of beg ch-2. Fasten off AC. (12 dc)
Round 2 (petals): Join CC in any dc. Working in the back loop only of each dc from Round 1, work (ch 5, sl st in same back loop, sl st in back loop of next dc) 6 times, then in the remaining 6 back loops work (ch 5, sl st in same back loop, sl st in next back loop) 6 times — 12 petal loops total. Working in the front loops you skipped, sl st in each front loop around to stabilize. (12 sl st) Fasten off CC.
Round 3 (square frame): Join MC in any petal loop at the tip. Corners: (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in petal tip. Sides: dc in tip of each of next 2 petals. Work all 4 corners and 4 sides. Join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off. Each finished side has 6 dc plus 4 corner ch-2 spaces. Block squares to 3 x 3 inches.
Front Bodice Panel
The front has three vertical zones: left mesh zone, center dense panel, right mesh zone. Place markers at the zone boundaries and move them up each row.
Foundation: With MC and the E-4 hook, ch 92 (96, 100, 104, 108).
Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (91, 95, 99, 103, 107 sc)
Zone division: Left mesh zone — first 22 (23, 24, 25, 26) sts. Center dense panel — next 47 (49, 51, 53, 55) sts. Right mesh zone — last 22 (23, 24, 25, 26) sts.
Rows 2-4: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (91, 95, 99, 103, 107 sc)
Row 5 (RS, begin zone texture): Left mesh zone: ch 1, sc in first st, (ch 3, sk 3 sts, sc in next st) 5 (5, 5, 6, 6) times. Center dense panel: sc across, EXCEPT at the center 2 sts work sk 1 sc, ch 2 (eyelet made), sk 1 sc, then continue sc. Right mesh zone: (sc in next st, ch 3, sk 3 sts) 5 (5, 5, 6, 6) times, sc in last st. Turn.
Continue with the mesh pattern on the sides and sc on the center (with an eyelet every 4th row) until the bodice measures 7 inches from the foundation.
Front armhole shaping — next row (RS): Sl st across the first 8 (8, 9, 9, 10) sts, ch 1, work in pattern until 8 (8, 9, 9, 10) sts remain, leave unworked. Turn. (75, 79, 81, 85, 87 sts)
**Decrease
rows 1-4:** Sc2tog at the beginning and end of each row. (67, 71, 73, 77, 79 sts after Row 4)
Work even for 6 (6, 7, 7, 8) more rows.
Front neckline shaping: Divide on the next RS row. Right shoulder: work the first 20 (21, 22, 23, 24) sts. Turn and work these sts only. Decrease at the neck edge every row for 3 rows, then work even for 4 rows. (17, 18, 19, 20, 21 sts) Fasten off. Skip the center 27 (29, 29, 31, 31) sts for the neckline opening. Left shoulder: attach yarn, work the remaining sts, mirroring the right shoulder shaping. (17, 18, 19, 20, 21 sts) Fasten off.
Back Bodice Panel
Work the same as the front but without the lace-up eyelet column — the center section is plain sc throughout.
**Foundation and
Rows 1-4:** Same as front. (91, 95, 99, 103, 107 sc)
Row 5 onward: Begin mesh zones on the sides, sc in the center (no eyelets). Continue until 7 inches. Armhole shaping: same as front. Work even for 10 (10, 11, 11, 12) rows after the decrease rows.
Back neckline: On the next RS row, work the first 17 (18, 19, 20, 21) sts for the right shoulder. Fasten off. Skip the center 33 (35, 35, 37, 37) sts. Work the remaining 17 (18, 19, 20, 21) sts for the left shoulder. Fasten off.
Sleeves (make 2)
Sleeve cap: With MC and the E-4 hook, ch 40 (42, 44, 46, 48).
Row 1 (RS): sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. (39, 41, 43, 45, 47 sc)
Rows 2-4: increase 1 st at each end. (45, 47, 49, 51, 53 sc after Row 4)
Rows 5-8: work even in sc.
Rows 9-16: sc2tog at each end every row. (29, 31, 33, 35, 37 sc after Row 16) Fasten off.
Upper sleeve tube: After setting the cap into the armhole, join MC at the underarm. Work sc evenly around the armhole opening, targeting 44 (46, 48, 50, 52) sts. Join with sl st.
Rnds 2-4: sc around, join. Adjust the stitch count for the mesh (must be divisible by 3): 45 (45, 48, 51, 54) sts.
Bell sleeve mesh: Switch to the F-5 hook. Work in the round: (dc in next st, ch 1, sk 1 st) around, increasing gradually — add 6 mesh repeats evenly every 4th round — until the sleeve flares to about twice the upper-arm width and measures 14 inches from the underarm. Work 2 rounds even, then finish with the picot scallop border. Fasten off.
Peplum and Finishing
Step 1: Block all pieces before seaming.
Step 2: With RS together, sl st the shoulder seams through both layers.
Step 3: Sl st the side seams from underarm to the bottom edge.
Step 4: Set the sleeve caps into the armholes and seam.
Step 5: Attach the daisy squares evenly across the waist front and back, sewing through the square frames.
Step 6: Work the peplum in the round from the lower bodice edge: join MC, work 1 round of sc (matching the bodice stitch count), then 4 rounds of (dc in next st, ch 1, sk 1 st) increasing 8 repeats evenly each round for flare. Finish with the picot scallop border. Fasten off.
Step 7: Thread the ribbon through the eyelet column for the lace-up closure and tie in a bow.
Sophie’s Tips
- The chain-1 turning chain for sc rows does NOT count as a stitch; the chain-3 for dc rows DOES. Keep that straight and your counts will behave.
- Block the mesh sections thoroughly — they grow significantly with wet blocking, and that is by design.
- The front neckline sits lower than the back for a flattering scoop, so do not panic when the pieces look uneven before seaming.
Plan this as a satisfying long-term project (about 30-45 hours), put on a good show, and enjoy watching a fairy top grow under your hands!
