# Sunset-Glow Hooded Cape Free Crochet Pattern
I have been hunting for the perfect hooded cape pattern for ages, friends — and this one checks every single box for me! The Sunset Glow Hooded Cape is already my favorite project to recommend for gift-giving, costume season, or just making something truly magical for a little one in your life.
This child-sized cloak works up from the neck down in a gorgeous granny cluster stitch that makes the most airy, textured fabric. The colors melt through six stunning shades, from burnt orange at the hood all the way down to fuchsia magenta at the hem — it honestly looks like a sunset wrapped around tiny shoulders. And the best part? It looks impressive but only uses stitches you already know. Let me show you!
What You’ll Need
- Worsted weight (weight 4) yarn, approximately 900 yards (823 meters) total across six colors:
- Color A (burnt orange): 120 yards
- Color B (golden yellow): 130 yards
- Color C (warm peach-gold): 130 yards
- Color D (soft peach): 130 yards
- Color E (dusty rose): 130 yards
- Color F (fuchsia-magenta): 160 yards
- US size J-10 / 6.0 mm crochet hook
- 1 yard (1 meter) satin ribbon, approximately 5/8 inch (16 mm) wide, in peach or a coordinating color
- Yarn needle for weaving ends and seaming
- Scissors
- 4 stitch markers
- Rust-proof pins for blocking
Finished size:
- Fits a child size 4 to 6 years (chest 22 to 24 inches / 56 to 61 cm)
- Cape length from neck to hem: approximately 18 inches (46 cm)
- Hood height: approximately 9 inches (23 cm)
- Hem circumference: approximately 80 inches (203 cm)
Gauge:
- 1 granny cluster repeat (3-dc cluster plus 1 ch-1 space) = approximately 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide. 4 rows of granny cluster stitch = approximately 2 inches (5 cm) tall. To check, work a flat granny rectangle 6 repeats wide by 8 rows tall — it should measure about 6 inches wide by 4 inches tall before blocking. Gauge really matters here: it’s what keeps the cape lying flat as it grows
The Pattern
Abbreviations: ch = chain, sl st = slip stitch, sc = single crochet, dc = double crochet, sp = space, ch-sp = chain space, rep = repeat, sk = skip, st(s) = stitch(es), RS = right side, WS = wrong side, yo = yarn over, cl = cluster, CU = cluster unit (one cluster plus its following ch-1 space).
Granny cluster (cl): Yo, insert hook into the designated stitch or space, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through 2 loops (2 loops on hook). Repeat that sequence 2 more times, all in the same stitch or space (4 loops on hook). Yo and pull through all 4 loops. One cluster made.
Increase unit: At increase points, work (1 cl, ch 1, 1 cl) into the same ch-1 space — this makes two cluster units where there was one. Hem shell: (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in same stitch or space. Picot: ch 3, sl st into the first chain made. Border shell: 2 dc, picot, 2 dc in same space.
Construction: you start at the neckline and work outward in joined rounds, so the fabric flares naturally into a full-circle silhouette — no seaming the body at all. From Round 3 on, work a ch-2 gap at center front on every round; this creates the open front of the cape.
Cape Body
With Color A, chain 60. Being careful not to twist, slip stitch into the first chain to form a ring.
Round 1 (Color A): Ch 3 (counts as first dc of first cluster throughout). Work 2 more dc into the ring to complete the first cluster. Ch 1. [Work 1 cl into the ring, ch 1] 19 times. Sl st into the top of the beginning ch 3 to join. (20 CU) All 20 clusters go into the center of the ring — this makes your snug neckline foundation.
Round 2 (Color A): Sl st into the first ch-1 sp. Ch 3, 2 dc into same ch-1 sp (first cl made). Ch 1. [1 cl into next ch-1 sp, ch 1] 19 times. Sl st to join. (20 CU)
Round 3 (Color A, increase round): Sl st into first ch-1 sp. Ch 3, 2 dc in same sp, ch 1 (first cl made). [(1 cl, ch 1, 1 cl) into next ch-1 sp, ch 1] 4 times. [1 cl into next ch-1 sp, ch 1] 10 times. [(1 cl, ch 1, 1 cl) into next ch-1 sp, ch 1] 4 times. [1 cl into next ch-1 sp, ch 1] to last sp before gap. Ch 2 (front gap). Sl st to join into top of beginning ch 3. (28 CU plus 1 ch-2 gap)
Round 4 (Color A, increase round): Sl st into first ch-1 sp. Ch 3, 2 dc in same sp, ch 1. [1 cl into next ch-1 sp, ch 1] across to first increase point. Work (1 cl, ch 1, 1 cl) into each of 4 evenly spaced ch-1 spaces (about every 7th space). Work 1 cl with ch 1 into each remaining sp. Ch 2 at front gap. Sl st to join. (36 CU plus ch-2 gap)
Checkpoint: After Round 4, your neckline should measure about 14 inches (35.5 cm) around the outer edge.
Continuing the Body
From Round 5 onward, add 8 cluster units every round to keep the fabric flat. Place the increases evenly spaced, shifting their position by about half a repeat each round so the increase lines don’t stack and cup the fabric.
Round 5: Start with 36 CU. Place 8 increases evenly (alternate every 4 and 5 CU). (44 CU)
Round 6: Start with 44 CU. Place 8 increases (about every 5.5 CU). (52 CU)
Round 7: Start with 52 CU. Place 8 increases (alternate every 6 and 7 CU). (60 CU)
Round 8: Start with 60 CU. Place 8 increases (about every 7.5 CU). (68 CU)
Round 9: Start with 68 CU. Place 8 increases (about every 8.5 CU). (76 CU)
Round 10: Start with 76 CU. Place 8 increases (about every 9.5 CU). (84 CU)
Checkpoint: After Round 10, the cape body should measure about 5 inches (12.7 cm) from neckline to current hem and lie completely flat when spread on a table.
Color Change Schedule
Change colors at the beginning of the specified round (work the last yarn over of the last stitch with the new color for a clean transition):
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Rounds 1–3: Color A (burnt orange)
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Rounds 4–5: Color B (golden yellow)
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Rounds 6–8: Color C (warm peach-gold)
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Rounds 9–11: Color D (soft peach)
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Rounds 12–14: Color E (dusty rose)
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Rounds 15–20: Color F (fuchsia-magenta)
Continuing the Increase Rounds
Round 11 (Color D): Start with 84 CU. Place 8 increases (alternate every 10 and 11 CU). (92 CU)
Round 12 (Color E): Start with 92 CU. Place 8 increases (every 11.5 CU). (100 CU)
Round 13 (Color E): Start with 100 CU. Place 8 increases (every 12.5 CU). (108 CU)
Round 14 (Color E): Start with 108 CU. Place 8 increases (every 13.5 CU). (116 CU)
Round 15 (Color F): Start with 116 CU. Place 8 increases (every 14.5 CU). (124 CU)
Round 16 (Color F): Start with 124 CU. Place 8 increases (every 15.5 CU). (132 CU)
Round 17 (Color F): Start with 132 CU. Place 8 increases (every 16.5 CU). (140 CU)
Checkpoint: After Round 17, the cape body should measure about 17 inches (43 cm) from neckline to current edge.
Hem Border (Color F, Rounds 18–20)
This is where the beautiful scalloped edge comes to life!
Round 18 (setup round): Sl st into first ch-1 sp. Ch 1. Sc into every cl and every ch-1 sp around. Work 2 sc into each ch-2 front gap corner. Sl st to join. (Approximately 280 sc)
Round 19 (shell round): Ch 1. Sc into first sc. [Sk 2 sc, work 1 hem shell (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) into next sc, sk 2 sc, sc into next sc] repeat around.
At the front corners, adjust spacing as needed to keep the scallops even. Sl st to join. (Approximately 46 hem shells plus 46 sc)
Round 20 (picot round): Ch 1. Sc into first sc. [Work border shell (2 dc, picot, 2 dc) into ch-1 sp of next hem shell, sc into next sc] repeat around. Sl st to join. Fasten off. Weave in end.
Hood
The hood is worked flat in rows with Color A.
Foundation: With Color A, ch 37.
Row 1 (WS): Dc into 4th ch from hook (beginning ch-3 counts as first dc). Dc into each ch across. Turn. (35 dc)
Row 2 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as first dc). Dc into each dc across. Dc into top of turning ch. Turn. (35 dc)
Rows 3–18: Repeat Row 2. (35 dc each row)
After Row 18, the hood panel should measure about 9 inches (23 cm) wide and 9 inches (23 cm) tall.
Seaming: Fold the hood panel in half with right sides together so the two short ends align. Seam across the top with a yarn needle and Color A using whipstitch or mattress stitch. Turn right side out — the seam runs along the top of the head.
Edging: With RS facing, Color A, join yarn at the bottom left corner of the hood opening. **Edging
Round 1: Ch 1. Work sc evenly around the face opening (about 60 sc). Sl st to join. Edging
Round 2:** Ch 1. Sc into each sc around. Sl st to join. Fasten off.
Attaching the hood: Pin the base edge of the hood evenly to the neckline of the cape body, centering the hood at the back — the front edges of the hood align with the front edges of the cape opening. Seam with mattress stitch using Color A and a yarn needle.
Ribbon Closure and Finishing
Thread the satin ribbon through the ch-1 spaces at the neckline on either side of the center front gap. Bring both ends to the front center and tie in a bow. Trim the ribbon ends at a 45-degree angle to prevent fraying. Weave in all ends securely, especially at color joins. For acrylic yarns, wet block: soak in cool water 20 minutes, gently squeeze (no wringing), roll in a clean towel and press, lay flat and pin to finished dimensions, and dry completely. Machine wash cold on gentle; lay flat to dry. Store folded, not hung, to prevent stretching at the neckline.
Size Customization Tips
For toddler size (2–3 years): Reduce the foundation ring to 50 chains. Begin with 16 CU in Round 1. Stop after Round 14 before the hem border. Total cape length will be about 14 to 15 inches.
For larger child (8–10 years): Increase the foundation ring to 70 chains. Begin with 24 CU in Round 1. Work through Round 22 before the hem border. Total cape length will be about 21 to 22 inches.
For adult size: Begin with 80 chains and 28 CU. Continue until the cape reaches your desired length. For all size adjustments, the hood width should equal about half the adjusted neckline circumference.
Sophie’s Tips
- The trick to a cape that lies flat is consistent tension and those shifted increase points — if your fabric starts to cup or ruffle, your increases are stacking. Spread them out and it’ll settle right down.
- Weave in your ends as you go at each color change, friends. Six colors over 20 rounds makes a lot of tails, and future-you will be so grateful not to face them all at the end!
- Lion Brand Pound of Love is my top pick here — it’s soft, washable, and perfect for kids’ garments. Whatever you choose, skip fuzzy or textured yarns; the granny cluster detail gets lost in the fuzz.
This cape is pure sunset magic — I can’t wait to see the little one in your life twirling in it!
