# Baby Dragonfly Poncho Free Crochet Pattern
Okay, this one might be my favorite costume project ever, friends! When I sat down to design this poncho, I had one mission: make a wearable dragonfly that looked absolutely stunning but that an intermediate crocheter could actually finish. The graduated teal tones, the veining on the wings, that cozy little hood with the fluffy antenna pompoms — I wanted parents to gasp when they saw their little one wearing it. And I am SO pleased with how it turned out!
This baby dragonfly poncho turns your littlest human into the cutest insect you’ve ever seen. Four oversized wings fan out from the shoulders, a narrow tail hangs down the front, and the structured hood keeps little ears warm while two blue pompoms perch on top like antennae. It’s a multi-piece project that will genuinely level up your skills — and every piece is simpler than it looks. Let’s build it together!
What You’ll Need
- Worsted weight yarn:
- Color A (Teal): approximately 250 yards — main body and wing centers
- Color B (Mint): approximately 200 yards — lighter areas and hood outer
- Color C (Aqua): approximately 100 yards — hood interior and wing highlights
- Color D (White): approximately 80 yards — all edging and borders
- US size J-10 / 6.0 mm crochet hook
- 6 stitch markers
- Yarn needle (tapestry needle)
- Scissors
- One 8 inch separating zipper in teal or aqua
- Sewing needle and coordinating thread
- Two 2.5 inch pompoms in blue
- Straight pins for seaming and zipper placement
- Measuring tape
Finished size:
- Fits infants approximately 6 to 12 months old
- Total wingspan approximately 28 inches tip to tip
- Hood circumference approximately 14 inches
- Tail approximately 8 inches long
Gauge:
- 14 single crochet stitches x 16 rows = 4 inches / 10 cm in single crochet with J-10 hook, blocked. To check: chain 20, work sc across for 20 rows, block, and measure the center 14 stitches over 16 rows. Gauge matters a lot here — wing dimensions and overall fit depend on it directly
The Pattern
Abbreviations: ch = chain, sl st = slip stitch, sc = single crochet, hdc = half double crochet, dc = double crochet, st(s) = stitch(es), inc = increase (2 sc in same st), sc2tog = single crochet 2 together, RS = right side, WS = wrong side, pm = place marker, rem = remaining, rep = repeat.
Special stitches: Picot edging: work 3 sc into the next 3 stitches, ch 3, sl st into the first of those 3 chains to form a picot loop, then 3 sc into the next 3 stitches; repeat along the edge. Surface slip stitch: with RS facing, make a slip knot on your hook, insert the hook from front to back through a stitch on the wing surface, catch the yarn and pull up a loop to the front; insert the hook into the next stitch and pull a loop through both the fabric and the loop on your hook. Continue along the marked vein line — this makes the raised wing veins.
Construction order: hood first (dome in rounds, then the face opening in rows), then the body panel, then the tail, then the four wings. Everything gets joined and finished as one garment.
Section 1: Hood
The hood is worked in two parts: the dome in joined rounds, then the face opening in rows. Color C lines the interior for a beautiful aqua peek.
Hood dome outer shell (Color B):
Round 1: Make a magic ring. Ch 2 (does not count as st). Work 10 hdc into ring. Join with sl st to first hdc. (10 hdc)
Round 2: Ch 2. 2 hdc in each st around. Join. (20 hdc)
Round 3: Ch 2. (2 hdc in next st, hdc in next st) around. Join. (30 hdc)
Round 4: Ch 2. (2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 2 sts) around. Join. (40 hdc)
Round 5: Ch 2. (2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 3 sts) around. Join. (50 hdc)
Round 6: Ch 2. (2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 4 sts) around. Join. (60 hdc)
Rounds 7–12: Ch 2. Hdc in each st around. Join. (60 hdc each round)
After Round 12, do not join — turn, and work in rows to create the face opening.
Row 13 (RS): Ch 1. Sc in first 42 sts. Leave the remaining 18 sts unworked. Ch 1, turn. (42 sc)
Rows 14–15: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (42 sc) Fasten off Color B, leaving a long tail for seaming.
Face opening trim (Color D): Join Color D at any point along the face opening edge. Work 1 round of sc evenly around the face opening — 1 sc per row end on the vertical sides, 1 sc per stitch along the base. Join. Fasten off. Set aside.
Hood interior lining (Color C): Work exactly like the outer shell, Rounds 1–12 only (skip Rows 13–15). Place the lining inside the outer dome with WS together and whipstitch around the face opening to secure.
Checkpoint: The completed hood should measure about 7 inches from crown to face opening base and about 14 inches in circumference at the face opening.
Section 2: Body Panel
The body panel sits over the baby’s shoulders — wider at the top, tapering slightly toward the bottom where the tail attaches.
With Color B, ch 43.
Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Ch 1, turn. (42 sc)
Rows 2–4: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (42 sc)
Row 5 (Color A accent): Join Color A. Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (42 sc) Do not cut Color A — drop it to the back.
Row 6: Pick up Color B. Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (42 sc)
Rows 7–8: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (42 sc)
Row 9 (Color A accent): Pick up Color A. Sc across. Ch 1, turn. (42 sc)
Row 10: Pick up Color B. Sc across. Ch 1, turn. (42 sc)
Rows 11–12: Sc across. Ch 1, turn. (42 sc)
Row 13 (decrease): Sc2tog at beginning, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (40 sc)
Rows 14–15: Sc across. Ch 1, turn. (40 sc)
Row 16 (decrease): Sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (38 sc)
Rows 17–18: Sc across. Ch 1, turn. (38 sc)
Row 19 (Color A accent): Pick up Color A. Sc across. Ch 1, turn. (38 sc)
Row 20: Pick up Color B. Sc across. Ch 1, turn. (38 sc)
Rows 21–22: Sc across. Ch 1, turn. (38 sc)
Row 23 (decrease): Sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (36 sc)
Rows 24–26: Sc across. Ch 1, turn. (36 sc) Fasten off, leaving long tails for seaming.
Checkpoint: The body panel should measure about 12 inches wide at the top, tapering to about 10.25 inches wide at the bottom, and about 6.5 inches tall.
Section 3: Tail
The tail is a narrow piece that hangs from the center bottom front. With Color A, ch 9.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Ch 1, turn. (8 sc)
Rows 2–32: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (8 sc each row)
Row 33 (taper): Sc2tog, sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (6 sc)
Row 34: Sc across. Ch 1, turn. (6 sc)
Row 35: Sc2tog, sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog. Ch 1, turn. (4 sc)
Row 36: Sc across. Ch 1, turn. (4 sc)
Row 37: Sc2tog twice. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc)
Row 38: Sc2tog. (1 sc) Fasten off.
Fold the tail in half lengthwise with WS together and slip stitch the long side seam closed using Color A. Leave the top open for attachment. The tail should measure about 8 inches long and 1 inch wide when seamed.
Section 4: Upper Wings (Make 2)
Each upper wing is wider and rounder at the top. The two are crocheted identically and reversed when seamed. With Color A, ch 3.
Row 1 (RS): Work 4 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 4 sc in 3rd ch. Ch 1, turn. (8 sc)
Rows 2–10: Increase in first st, sc to last st, increase in last st. Ch 1, turn. (
Row 2: 10 sc,
Row 3: 12 sc,
Row 4: 14 sc,
Row 5: 16 sc,
Row 6: 18 sc,
Row 7: 20 sc,
Row 8: 22 sc,
Row 9: 24 sc,
Row 10: 26 sc)
Rows 11–12: Sc across. Ch 1, turn. (26 sc)
Row 13: Inc, sc to last st, inc. Ch 1, turn. (28 sc)
Row 14: Sc across. (28 sc)
Row 15: Inc, sc to last st, inc. (30 sc)
Row 16: Sc across. (30 sc)
Row 17: Inc, sc to last st, inc. (32 sc)
Row 18: Sc across. (32 sc)
Row 19: Inc, sc to last st, inc. (34 sc)
Rows 20–21: Sc across. (34 sc)
Rows 22–33: Sc2tog at beginning and end of the row (decrease 2 per decrease row), working one even row between decreases:
Row 22: 32 sc,
Row 23: 32 sc even,
Row 24: 30 sc,
Row 25: 30 sc even,
Row 26: 28 sc,
Row 27: 26 sc,
Row 28: 24 sc,
Row 29: 22 sc,
Row 30: 20 sc,
Row 31: 18 sc,
Row 32: 16 sc,
Row 33: 14 sc. Fasten off.
Work the Color B midtone overlay ring by joining Color B at any outer edge corner and working a row of sc evenly around the entire outer perimeter. For the inner Color C highlight, work a small oval: chain 14, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 11 chains (13 sc), work 3 sc in last chain to round the tip, continue along the opposite side working 13 sc, work 3 sc in the first chain to round the other tip. Join. (32 sc total) Seam this oval to the center front of each upper wing.
Checkpoint: Each upper wing should measure about 7 inches at its widest point and about 9 inches from pointed base to outer tip.
Section 5: Lower Wings (Make 2)
The lower wings are slightly smaller and more tapered. With Color A, ch 3.
Row 1: 4 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 4 sc in 3rd ch. Ch 1, turn. (8 sc)
Rows 2–8: Inc in first st, sc to last st, inc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (
Row 2: 10 sc …
Row 8: 22 sc)
Row 9: Sc across. (22 sc)
Row 10: Inc, sc to last st, inc. (24 sc)
Row 11: Sc across. (24 sc)
Row 12: Inc, sc to last st, inc. (26 sc)
Row 13: Sc across. (26 sc)
Row 14: Inc, sc to last st, inc. (28 sc)
Rows 15–16: Sc across. (28 sc)
Rows 17–26: Sc2tog at each end with an even row between decreases:
Row 17: 26 sc,
Row 18: 26 sc even,
Row 19: 24 sc,
Row 20: 24 sc even,
Row 21: 22 sc,
Row 22: 20 sc,
Row 23: 18 sc,
Row 24: 16 sc,
Row 25: 14 sc,
Row 26: 12 sc. Fasten off.
Work the Color B midtone ring and Color C inner highlight oval the same way as the upper wings, sizing the inner oval to a chain-10 foundation (24 sc total).
Checkpoint: Each lower wing should measure about 6 inches at its widest and about 7.5 inches from base to tip.
Section 6: Wing Veins, Assembly, and Finishing
After all four wings have their inner ovals seamed on, add veining with Color A using surface slip stitch. On each upper wing, work 3 vein lines: Vein 1 runs from the inner base point outward toward the outer tip (about 6 inches long); Vein 2 branches left from about one-third along Vein 1 at a 30-degree angle (about 2.5 inches); Vein 3 branches right from about two-thirds along Vein 1 (about 2.5 inches). Work 2 veins on each lower wing.
Edge all four wings with the white picot edging. Seam the upper wings to the top corners of the body panel and the lower wings just below them, fanning outward — the two upper wings mirror each other, as do the lowers. Seam the hood to the top edge of the body panel, centering it at the back. Attach the tail to the center bottom front. Sew the two blue pompoms to the top of the hood as antennae. Install the 8-inch separating zipper along the front opening with a sewing needle and coordinating thread. Weave in every end.
Sophie’s Tips
- Pin everything before you sew a single stitch — lay the wings out, step back, and check the symmetry from across the room. You’ll thank yourself when both sides fan out evenly!
- Keep your surface slip stitch veins loose and relaxed. If you pull them tight, the wings will pucker; a gentle hand keeps them lying flat and pretty.
- This is a wonderful stash-friendly project for those teal and mint leftovers — the wing ovals and accents use small amounts, so dig through your yarn basket first.
Your littlest dragonfly is ready for takeoff, friends — have the camera ready!
