# Lavender Bobble Hoodie Free Crochet Pattern for Babies
I absolutely melt for baby cardigans with texture, and this little lavender hoodie might be the squishiest thing I have ever made. Tiny heart-shaped buttons, three-dimensional bobbles all over the body and sleeves, a cozy hood with the sweetest pointed peak, and a delicate scallop edging on every hem. It is the kind of baby gift that makes the whole room say “aww” — and then ask where you bought it.
The construction is a joy too. You work it top-down in one piece with a raglan yoke, so there is almost no seaming — the only seam in the whole garment is at the top of the hood. And if you have never made bobbles before, don’t worry one bit. I’ll walk you through every step. They look impressive but are honestly meditative once you find the rhythm.
What You’ll Need
- Worsted weight (category 4) yarn, approximately 400 to 450 yards (365 to 410 m) total in a soft lavender shade
- US size H-8 / 5.0 mm crochet hook
- Yarn needle for weaving in ends
- Stitch markers (at least 4)
- 4 heart-shaped buttons, approximately 3/4 inch (18 to 20 mm) diameter
- Sewing needle and matching thread for attaching buttons
- Scissors
Finished size:
- Written for size 6 to 12 months. Chest circumference approximately 20 inches (51 cm)
- Total length from shoulder to hem approximately 11 inches (28 cm)
- Sleeve length from underarm to cuff approximately 6.5 inches (16.5 cm)
- Hood height from neckline to peak approximately 7 inches (18 cm)
Gauge:
- 14 bobble stitches and 10 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in bobble stitch pattern, blocked. 14 single crochet and 16 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in single crochet for the hood. Please swatch — one stitch per 4 inches really does change the chest measurement here
The Pattern
How to Make the Bobble Stitch
Yarn over, insert the hook into the indicated stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through 2 loops. Repeat four more times in the same stitch, stopping before the final pull-through each time — you will have 6 loops on the hook. Yarn over and pull through all 6 loops, then chain 1 to close and lock the bobble (the closing chain doesn’t count as a stitch). Bobbles pop toward the back as you make them and face the right side when you turn.
Scallop Edging
Slip stitch into the first stitch. Skip 2 stitches, work 5 dc in the next stitch, skip 2 stitches, slip stitch in the next stitch. Repeat across or around.
Raglan Increase
At each of your 4 raglan markers: work 2 bobble stitches in the stitch immediately before the marker, 1 sc in the marked stitch (the raglan spine, always sc), and 2 bobble stitches in the stitch immediately after the marker. This adds 4 stitches per marker, 16 total, and creates a polished diagonal line.
Yoke
The yoke starts at the neckline and is worked flat to create the front opening.
Foundation chain: Chain 43.
Row 1 (WS, setup): Sc in the 2nd chain from the hook and in each chain across. Turn. (42 sc)
Place markers: Marker A at stitch 7, Marker B at stitch 14, Marker C at stitch 29, Marker D at stitch 36. This gives you right front (6 sts), right sleeve (6 sts), back (14 sts), left sleeve (6 sts), left front (6 sts), plus 4 raglan spine stitches. Total: 42 sts.
Row 2 (RS, bobble increase row): Chain 1, turn. Work bobbles in all non-spine stitches, sc in each of the 4 spine stitches, working the Raglan Increase at each marker. (58 sts) — right front 8, right sleeve 10, back 18, left sleeve 10, left front 8, plus 4 spines.
Row 3 (WS): Chain 1, turn. Sc in each stitch across. No raglan increases on sc rows. (58 sc)
Row 4 (RS, bobble increase row): Work the Raglan Increase at each marker. (74 sts)
Row 5 (WS): Sc across. (74 sc)
Row 6 (RS, bobble increase row): Work the Raglan Increase at each marker. (90 sts)
Row 7 (WS): Sc across. (90 sc)
Row 8 (RS, bobble increase row): Work the Raglan Increase at each marker. (106 sts)
Row 9 (WS): Sc across. (106 sc)
Row 10 (RS, bobble increase row): Work the Raglan Increase at each marker. (122 sts)
Row 11 (WS): Sc across. (122 sc)
Row 12 (RS, bobble increase row): Work the Raglan Increase at each marker. (138 sts)
Row 13 (WS): Sc across. (138 sc)
Row 14 (RS, bobble increase row): Work the Raglan Increase at each marker. (154 sts) — right front 20, right sleeve 34, back 42, left sleeve 34, left front 20, plus 4 spines.
Row 15 (WS): Sc across. (154 sc)
Checkpoint: the yoke should measure approximately 6 inches (15 cm) from the foundation chain.
Body Separation
Row 16 (RS, separation row): Chain 1, turn. Work bobble pattern across the right front 20 sts. Skip the right sleeve 34 sts plus 1 spine stitch and place those 35 sts on waste yarn. Chain 6 for the underarm bridge. Work bobble pattern across the back 42 sts. Skip the left sleeve 34 sts plus 1 spine stitch (35 sts on waste yarn). Chain 6 for the underarm bridge. Work bobble pattern across the left front 20 sts. (94 sts)
Body
Continue flat to keep the front opening.
Row 17 (WS): Chain 1, turn. Sc across all 94 sts. (94 sc)
Row 18 (RS): Chain 1, turn. Bobble in each stitch across. (94 sts)
Rows 19–32: Alternate sc rows (WS) and bobble rows (RS), keeping 94 sts throughout. Don’t fasten off — you’ll work the hem edging after the sleeves.
Checkpoint: the body from separation should measure approximately 5 inches (12.5 cm), for a total of 11 inches (28 cm) from the neckline.
Sleeves (make 2)
Return to the held sleeve stitches. Rejoin yarn at the underarm bridge edge. Pick up and work across the 35 held sleeve stitches, then pick up 6 stitches across the underarm bridge chain. Join with a slip stitch to form a round. (41 sts)
**Sleeve
Round 1 (bobble round):** Chain 1, don’t turn. Bobble in each stitch around, join with a slip stitch. (41 sts)
**Sleeve
Round 2 (sc round):** Chain 1, sc in each stitch around, join. (41 sc)
**Sleeve
Rounds 3–12:** Alternate bobble and sc rounds. (41 sts)
**Sleeve
Round 13:** Chain 1. Decrease 5 stitches evenly spaced (sc2tog at 5 points). (36 sc)
Cuff scallop edging: Slip stitch into the first stitch, then (skip 2 sts, 5 dc in the next stitch, skip 2 sts, slip stitch in the next stitch) repeated 6 times. Fasten off.
Repeat for the second sleeve.
Hem Edging
Return to the body (94 stitches at the bottom edge).
Hem decrease row: With RS facing, attach yarn at the bottom right corner. Chain 1. Sc across the entire bottom edge, decreasing 4 stitches evenly spaced (sc2tog at 4 points). (90 sc)
Hem scallop edging: Slip stitch into the first stitch, then (skip 2 sts, 5 dc in the next stitch, skip 2 sts, slip stitch in the next stitch) repeated 15 times. Fasten off.
Front Band and Button Loops
With RS facing, attach yarn at the bottom right front corner.
Row 1: Chain 1, sc evenly up the right front edge (about 2 sc per bobble row, 1 sc per sc row), across the neckline, and down the left front edge — approximately 48 sc up the right front, 42 sc across the neckline, 48 sc down the left front. (138 sc total)
Button loop row (right front only): Sc in each stitch, placing 4 button loops evenly spaced. For each loop: chain 3, skip 2 sts, sc in the next stitch. Place the first loop 4 stitches from the bottom, then roughly every 10 stitches. Fasten off.
Hood
Hood pickup row: With RS facing, attach yarn at the top right front corner. Sc evenly across the neckline edge, picking up approximately 42 stitches. (42 sc)
**Hood
Row 1 (RS):** Chain 1, turn. Bobble in each stitch across. (42 sts)
**Hood
Row 2 (WS):** Chain 1, turn. Sc across. (42 sc)
Continue alternating bobble and sc rows until the hood measures approximately 6 inches (15 cm) from the pickup row, ending on a WS row — about 15 to 16 rows.
Hood Peak Shaping
Row 17 (RS): Chain 1, turn. Bobble across to the center 2 stitches, sc2tog over the center 2 stitches, bobble to the end. (41 sts)
Row 18 (WS): Chain 1, turn. Sc across. (41 sc)
Row 19 (RS): Chain 1, turn. Bobble to 1 stitch before center, sc2tog, bobble to the end. (40 sts)
Row 20 (WS): Chain 1, turn. Sc across. (40 sc)
Continue decreasing 1 stitch every RS row until 20 stitches remain. Fasten off, leaving a 12-inch (30 cm) tail. Fold the hood in half with RS together and seam the top 10 stitches to the opposite 10 stitches with the tail. Turn right side out.
Sew on the four heart buttons opposite the button loops, weave in every end, and try not to squeeze the baby wearing it — I know it’s hard.
Sophie’s Tips
- Avoid fuzzy or heavily textured yarns. They will hide your beautiful bobbles, and that would be a genuine shame.
- Keep track of your right side. Bobbles pop toward the back while you work them, so a little stitch marker in the RS saves confusion on long rows.
- If you are between sizes, go up one increase row on the yoke rather than guessing — babies grow into a slightly roomy hoodie beautifully.
This little hoodie is pure baby-gift gold — squishy, adorable, and destined to be photographed. Go make one!
