# Baby Fox Shortalls Free Crochet Pattern
Friends, I need you to stop what you are doing and go dig that gorgeous rust-colored skein out of your stash — you know the one you have been saving for something special. I found its destiny: the cutest little fox shortalls you have ever seen. Burnt orange body, a fox face that doubles as a pocket (yes, a POCKET), and construction that is genuinely fun to work.
Let me be straight with you on difficulty: this is an intermediate make. You work each leg tube separately, join them at the crotch, then build the body and bib upward. If you have made amigurumi before, you already own most of these skills. If you have only done blankets, this will stretch you — and that is a good thing.
What You’ll Need
- Worsted weight yarn, main color (rust or burnt orange): approximately 400 (450, 520, 600, 680) yards for sizes A (B, C, D, E)
- Worsted weight yarn, off-white or cream: approximately 30 yards
- Worsted weight yarn, white: approximately 15 yards
- Small amounts of black and dusty pink yarn or embroidery floss for the fox’s facial features
- US size J-10 / 6.0 mm hook for the main body
- US size H-8 / 5.0 mm hook for all ribbing sections
- At least 6 stitch markers
- Yarn needle
- 4 wooden shank buttons, 3/4 inch / 19 mm diameter
- Scissors
Finished size:
- Five sizes: A (0–3 mo): chest 14 in, total length 13 in, leg length 4 in, inseam 1.5 in | B (3–6 mo): chest 16 in, total length 14.5 in, leg length 4.5 in, inseam 2 in | C (6–12 mo): chest 18 in, total length 16 in, leg length 5 in, inseam 2.5 in | D (12–18 mo): chest 20 in, total length 17.5 in, leg length 5.5 in, inseam 3 in | E (18–24 mo): chest 22 in, total length 19 in, leg length 6 in, inseam 3.5 in
- Gauge with main color and J hook, in back-loop-only half double crochet in the round: 15 stitches = 4 inches, 10 rounds = 4 inches
The Pattern
Pattern notes: Sizes are written as A (B, C, D, E) with Size C as the reference size. Where only one number appears, it applies to all sizes. The turning ch-2 never counts as a stitch. All body rounds are worked in back-loop-only half double crochet (BLO hdc), which gives the fabric its stretchy ribbed texture.
Leg Cuff Ribbing (make 2)
With the H-8 / 5.0 mm hook and main color:
Ch 7 (7, 9, 9, 11).
Row 1: Sl st in BLO of 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. Ch 1, turn. (6, 6, 8, 8, 10 sl sts)
Row 2: Sl st in BLO of each st across. Ch 1, turn. (6, 6, 8, 8, 10 sl sts)
Repeat Row 2 until the strip measures: A: 12 rows | B: 14 rows | C: 16 rows | D: 18 rows | E: 20 rows.
Fold the strip with right sides together, slip stitch the short ends together to form a ring. Fasten off. Make a second ring.
Leg Tubes (make 2)
Switch to the J-10 / 6.0 mm hook and main color. Join with sl st to any stitch along one edge of the cuff ring.
Setup round: Ch 2. Work 1 hdc into the same stitch as the join, then 1 hdc into each remaining stitch around the top edge of the cuff ring. Sl st to first hdc to join. (24, 26, 28, 30, 32 hdc)
Round 1 onward: Ch 2, BLO hdc in same st as join and in each st around. Sl st to first hdc to join.
Work even rounds with no shaping until the leg tube measures: A: 4 in | B: 4.5 in | C: 5 in | D: 5.5 in | E: 6 in (for Size C, about 12–13 rounds).
After the final round of Leg 1, do not fasten off — leave a long tail and place a marker in the last stitch. Work Leg 2 the same way; after its final round, do not fasten off and do not join.
Joining the Legs and Body
Place Leg 2 with its working yarn ready beside Leg 1. On each leg, mark the halfway point of the round — this is the inseam position.
Joining round: With the working yarn from Leg 2, ch 3 for Size C (A and B: ch 2; D: ch 4; E: ch 5). Work BLO hdc across all stitches of Leg 1 all the way around (28 sts for C), then BLO hdc into each chain of the crotch bridge (3 for C), then BLO hdc across all of Leg 2 (28 for C), then BLO hdc into the remaining side of the crotch bridge chain (3 for C). Sl st to first hdc to join. (52, 56, 62, 68, 74 hdc)
Mark the front center stitch and back center stitch.
Body Rounds
Work even rounds in BLO hdc with no shaping until the body, measured from the crotch joining round, reaches: A: 4 in (about 10 rounds) | B: 4.5 in (about 11 rounds) | C: 5 in (about 12–13 rounds) | D: 5.5 in (about 14 rounds) | E: 6 in (about 15 rounds).
Keep stitch counts: (52, 56, 62, 68, 74 hdc).
Front Bib Panel
The bib covers the front half: A: 26 sts | B: 28 sts | C: 31 sts | D: 34 sts | E: 37 sts (back keeps the same count).
With RS facing, join main color with sl st to the first stitch of the front section. Ch 2, turn.
Bib rows: BLO hdc in each st across the front section only. Ch 2, turn. Continue even rows until the bib, measured from the top body edge, reaches: A: 3.5 in (about 9 rows) | B: 4 in (about 10 rows) | C: 4.5 in (about 11–12 rows) | D: 5 in (about 12–13 rows) | E: 5.5 in (about 14 rows).
Bib top ribbing: Switch to the H-8 hook. Work 4 rows of sl st in BLO across the top of the bib. Fasten off. (31 sts for C)
Straps (make 2)
With the H-8 hook and main color, ch 5.
Row 1: Sl st in BLO of 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. Ch 1, turn. (4 sl sts)
Row 2: Sl st in BLO of each st across. Ch 1, turn. Repeat Row 2 until the strap measures: A: 7 in | B: 7.5 in | C: 8 in | D: 8.5 in | E: 9 in. Fasten off, leaving a 12-inch tail.
Sew each strap to the top front corners of the bib. The straps cross over the shoulder and button onto the back — sew two buttons on the back panel about 1 inch from each top corner, and make a buttonhole loop at each strap end (ch 4, sl st to base of chain). Sew two extra decorative buttons on the front bib top corners.
Fox Face Applique Pocket
Ears (make 2): With main color and J hook, make a magic ring.
Round 1: Ch 1, 6 sc into ring. (6 sc)
Round 2: 2 sc in each sc around. (12 sc)
Round 3: (Sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc) 6 times. (18 sc)
Round 4: Sc in each sc around. (18 sc) Fasten off with a long tail. Use cream yarn to embroider a V-shape over the inner two-thirds of each ear.
Face circle: With main color and J hook, make a magic ring.
Round 1: Ch 2, 10 hdc into ring. Join. (10 hdc)
Round 2: Ch 2, 2 hdc in each hdc around. Join. (20 hdc)
Round 3: Ch 2, (2 hdc in next st, hdc in next st) 10 times. Join. (30 hdc)
Round 4: Ch 2, (2 hdc in next st, hdc in each of next 2 sts) 10 times. Join. (40 hdc)
Round 5: Ch 2, (2 hdc in next st, hdc in each of next 3 sts) 10 times. Join. (50 hdc) For Sizes D and E only, work one more increase round to 60 hdc.
Embroider the fox features: cream muzzle patch (surface crochet a small cream circle), black nose triangle, closed sleepy eyes in black, and dusty pink inner ears. Sew the ears to the top of the face circle. Sew the face circle to the bib along the bottom and sides only — the open top is the pocket.
Finishing
Weave in all ends. Work 1 row of sc along the top edge of the back panel for a clean edge. Give everything a gentle block and sew on all four buttons securely — tugging tested, since babies pull everything.
Sophie’s Tips
- Place a locking marker at the inseam halfway points before the joining round — guessing at the crotch placement is how shortalls get twisted.
- The BLO hdc texture hides a lot, so if your counts drift by one stitch, just quietly fix it on the next round. I won’t tell.
- Machine-washable worsted only for baby wear. That fox face is going to get chewed on, trust me.
This little fox is ready for adventures — happy hooking!
